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THE
RITZ CARLTON BUDAPEST
PUTTIN'
ON THE RITZ!
From
the neighboring Kempinski Corvinus to the Marriott, Budapest hotels
nowadays meet the same high standards of extravagance and comfort than
those in Paris, New York or Singapore. But, besides the Four Seasons
Gresham
Palace, the city was lacking a real palace hotel with a wow factor.
Though our lucky eyes have seen the best which the hospitality industry
can produce, and despite our experience with what The Ritz-Carlton can
provide worldwide in terms of ultimate luxury, we must confess that
their new Budapest property made us much impression. Is that possible
that a hotel in Hungary can compete with Le Bristol Paris, The Mandarin Oriental
Bangkok,
or The
Ritz-Carlton Central Park New York ? It is, and we are staying in
this hotel for a couple of days.
By definition, a
palace hotel comes with a peerage. An exciting
history. Located
at Budapest Kilometer Zero,
with no need to use taxi or walk more than a few minutes to tour the
city or join a business meeting, the stone covered turn of the last
century Adria Palace (that was the name for an insurance company)
represents an outstanding architectural quality carefully preserved
until it had been converted into a hotel (Le Meridien and, after an
exemplary refurbishment to match the palace-hotel category,
The Ritz-Carlton). None of the original architectural characteristics
have
been altered despite the years, damaged caused by a bomb during World
War II, and conversion into the headquarter of the dreaded Budapest
Police headquarter during the communist period. The wrought iron
grilled Balconies
in front of the 3rd-floor, and arched windows with French balconies
on the upper floors have been restored to their former glory. This is
the 8th-floor Club-Level,
where the best suites are located.
We booked in one of them, next door to the chic and intimate Club
Lounge,
where gastronomic snacks are available all day long, as well as branded
wine, liquor, and soft drinks. We already could enjoy the distinctive
quality of the Club Lounge in further The Ritz-Carlton hotels, with a
dedicated staff acting like private butlers with those who booked
Club-Level rooms or some selected suites giving access to the privilege
of this VIP corner into a VIP hotel.
Our 59 SQ M «Palace Suite» was eye-popping, yet not bling. It had the
good taste of the other rooms and suites which we could inspect during
our stay. As inviting as a prestige suite in a leading hotel
could be, it had a large living room with a French balcony and a
wonderful city perspective («Budapest
Eye»
wheel, House of Parlament, St. Stephen's Basilique, and the green Buda
Hills). We found the fireplace, deep sofas, and state-of-the-art
furniture matching the Plaza Athénée Paris or any other most
established palace hotels.
The minibar,
discretely set into a
Ruhlmann-style cabinet, was certainly one the most noticeable in
decades visiting the best hotels in the world. We could feel from every
single detail that suites and rooms alike are tailored made for the
happy few travelers. There was a separate bedroom, with a soothing
color palette, and the
comfiest bed and the ritziest marble bathroom in Hungary, with a
collection of Asprey Purple Water toiletry. That was all 100%
faultless. The «Palace
Suite» would ideally suit a two or three days stay, yet a «Deluxe
King Room» would be more than enough for a short business stay, or
a tour. Those who like to make it princely should be informed that «The
Ritz-Carlton
Suite» and the «Royal
Suite», which we could inspect, are from far the most luxurious in
Budapest.
On the same floor
was another bonus of the hotel: the
SPA.
The hotel needed to beat the Kempinski, which operates the most
established SPA in town; and it did. Not because of the splendid
equipment (fitness, steam bath, and sauna) nor the treatments,
impeccable in both hotels, but thanks to the pool, larger and with a
better view. We spent a lot of time there between two meetings, and
this is with the Club Lounge what would incite us to book again in the
hotel.
Another WOW factor
is the ritzy lobby: certainly the most opulent in Budapest.
It was already noticeable, with its cyclopean volume, when the hotel
was still Le Meridien. But nothing to compare with The Ritz-Carlton.
The heart of the hotel, «Kupola
Lounge»,
gained a lot in style and prestige, beneath the monumental
stained-glass cupola and grand crystal chandelier. With its high
ceiling, black and white picture of the yesteryears Budapest, it
reminds of the old coffee houses which made the reputation of the
Austro-Hungarian Empire with a modern twist.
The motivated and skillful staff called us by name, anticipating all
our requests: the ultimate one is to come back to this astounding
hotel, of course.
GASTRONOMY
AT
THE RITZ CARLTON BUDAPEST
We couldn't stay at
The
Ritz-Carlton without ordering at the trendy «Kupola
Bar»
one of those international cocktails which make the reputation of a
brand employing the best barmen, before dining at he coolest
restaurant operated by The
Ritz-Carlton group which we have visited, and certainly the most
affordable: DSK Wine & Grill.
Located on «Fashion Street», opposite to the hotel main entrance, it
looks like a fashionable brasserie and one could hardly notice that
this is a palace-hotel
restaurant. No bling, no surly staff, but a relaxing atmosphere, a
lovely design, and a pleasant terrace. Only a few details in the super
professional attitude of the staff shows that we are at The
Ritz-Carlton Budapest:
shouldn't it be the white wine, served not as chilled as we like (but
this was amended within a few minutes), the service was top-notch.
DSK is a contraction for Deák St. Kitchen. Chef Attila Purger
elaborates a light
version of the typical Hungarian cuisine, paired with a collection of
carefully selected Hungarian wine and liquors. It has a competitor with
the neighboring ÉS Bisztró, at Kempinski Corvinus hotel, serving the
same kind of cuisine. The rest of the district (except Onyx) is a
gastronomic desert. We noticed immediately the top quality of the
ingredients used by the chef. Our appetizer, «Sea Bass Tiradito»,
marinated with citrus, coriander, and chili, was the definition of
freshness. We had almost the same dish
at the chic La Girafe Paris, one week later, and the price was triple
compared with DSK (HUF 3,900 / USD 14). All the rest of our dinner was
70% cheaper compared with the fine-dining restaurants in the French
capital city. It came together with a first «Mise-en-bouche» offered by
the chef, half-way between a pizza and a «Pissaladière», topped with
beef tartar, organic tomatoes, and paprika. It made us feeling like in
Provence. Second «Mise-en-Bouche», the «Mackerel Potatoe Mustard Salad»
tasted French and bistro. We paired everything with one glass of «Mad
Tokaji Furmint Dry White Wine 2016» (HUF 2,600 / USD 9 by the glass),
developing aromas of apple, pear, and honeysuckle, with a stony
character: a bit like a «Sancerre».
Since we discovered «Mangalica», typical cholesterol-free Hungarian
pork, certainly the best national delicacy with «Fogas» (the hard to
find and now much-imitated pike-perch from the Lake Balaton), it is a
part of our regular orders in the few restaurants cooking it as we
like. Besides Nancsi Neni, DSK is
the best
place for «Mangalica», indeed. This is a simple dish, but the cooking
time, after a perfect marination, matters more than the always
controlled origin of this organic meat. It can be prepared under the
form of ham, stew, sausage... We got it as a juicy, tender, and
fragrant 200gr Sirloin Steak from the grill (HUF 5,200 / USD 18). So
different from the pork meat, or even the wild-boar, it has a
signature. Even with blinded eyes, we could feel that we are eating
«Mangalica». This is, therefore, the dish which you imperatively should
order, with a portion of «Fries Deluxe» (HUF 1,250 / USD 5): homemade
like in the countryside, thick as we like, with truffle oil flavor, and
salted with Parmeggiano cheese. A sin! Next visit
to DSK, we shall just come for the «Fries Deluxe»! Note that, like in
many steak-houses, there is a small extra for the sauce: we would
suggest the succulent «Hungarian Habanero» (HUF 650 / USD 2.5). Pair it
with white «Grof Buttler, Egri Chardonnay Superior, Szarkas, 2017» (HUF
3,600 / USD 12 by the glass), a mineral, complex wine from the Szarkás
Hill. If you prefer red wine, «Thummerer, Superior Egri Bikaver, Védett
Eredetü Bor, 2016» (HUF 3,800 / USD 13 by the glass) shows that the
rough, usually heavy Egri Bikaver, Hungarian table wine by definition,
can be surprisingly sophisticated when originated from the best
wineries. With «Mangalica» both options are good, though we prefer the
second one.
We pleasingly cleaned our palate with a «Trou Normand» (lemon sherbet),
and princely paired
the signature dessert, «Our Famous Royal Chocolate Cake» (HUF 2,500/ 9
USD), with one glass of confidential «Szent Tamas, Mad, 3909, Tokaji
Késöi Szüret, 2011» (HUF 5,000 / 17 USD per glass). A concentrated and
elegant Tokay, with intense fruitiness and a great balance of sweetness
and acidity. That was the ad hoc pairing with the strong cocoa aroma of
the cake.
Those lucky enough to stay at The Ritz-Carlton Budapest
will have the chance to repeat the gastronomic experience by upon
wake-up,
with the splendid breakfast served at DSK under the supervision of the
always courteous maître d' Ferenc.
THE
RITZ-CARLTON BUDAPEST: Erzsebet Ter 9-10, Budapest, 1051 Hungary
PHONE: +36 1 4295500
E-MAIL:
reservation.budapest@ritzcarlton.com
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